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Building Trilars by Part
Rudder Leeboard Floats (Amas) Float Braces (Akas) Mast Sail
The control surfaces for the Trilars are composed of the rudder blade, rudder cheek, tiller, tiller arm pintels and gudgeons. The rudder blade will hang from the check, on a pivot bolt. The control arm is attached to the top of the check and and to the tiller. The entire unti then attaches to the main hull with pintles and gudgeons.
BLADE
The rudder blade is made from 2 layers of 1/4 ply cut to the specifications on the plans. The shape can be drawn on one blank cut into a rectangle that fits the dimensions of the blade. Then two blades can be cut at the same time using a jig saw. Next the two blades will be glued (epoxy or glue for water exposure should be used) and clamped (here I used a marine battery for clamping pressure). The blades will next be feathered to shape by marking a bevel to line about a 1" around all sides and a plane or belt sander can be used to shape the blade.
CHEEK
The rudder cheek is composed of 3 layers of 1/4" ply cut to the shape as defined on the plans. (Here I have cut out four, one will not be needed). Then they are epoxy glued together and clamp to set. After the epoxy sets it has been sanded and the corners lightly rounded.
CONTROL ARM
The control arm which attaches to the rudder cheek is glued up from 3 layers. After the epoxy sets it can be sanded and and rounded smooth.
Hardware & Assmebly
I purchase the light duty pintle and gudgeon set from duckworks. Here the upper gudgeon is attached to the transom frame using four stainless steel through bolts with washers and nylok nuts.
Below the pintel is in place for a test fit.
Here you can see the control arm is attached the check blade assembly. Two 3 inch long 3/4" square blocks along with screws and glue are used to complete this task.
Leeboard
The three layers that will be glued up to make the leeboard.
Primed and painte, sample placement
Leeboard Upper Guard
Floats (Amas)
The first step in constructing the amas is to cut out the four bulkheads that will be used to shape each of the floats. They are cut to the dimensions on the plans. Then in the bottom corners of each bulkhead limber holes are cut. Also the plans recommend ventalation holes in each bulkhead. The bulkhead are rectangular in shape and a table saw can make quick work of cutting these. They certainly can be cut with a circular or jig saw as well. I used a hole saw to cut my limber and ventalition holes, and again a jig saw would work as well. Next framing sticks are attached to the sides then the top of each bulkhead. They were attached using gorilla glue and nailed with a air powered braid nailer (5/8"). These are used to glue and nail the sides and top of the amas.
STEMS
BULKHEADS
BOTTOMS
The bottom shapes are lofted onto plywood and cut out. The bottom panels are 12' long, I cut the ends to shape prior to joining the panels. I used the 4' panels as templates to mark the 8' ones.
SIDES
Two pair of mirror image sides are need to complete the two floats. 19" x 12' blanks are needed for the sides. I am using 1/8" luan to help keep the weight down, so I have attached at 7' and a 5' long panels with butt joints and Gorilla Glue. Next the shape of the sides are lofted on to the 12' panel. Then pair of sides will be cut at the same time as the panels are clamped together with what will be the outboard sides touching. This will provided the mirror image pair that is needed. I did find as I was marking the bulkhead locations that my 7' butt joint on one pair will interfere with the bulkhead. I should be able to move it forward about 3" and still have a good fit.
WALES
The wales are 3/4" square. They were cut from 10' and 6' 2x4's, certainly they could have been cut from 16' (or 12+') 3/4" stock. The 2x4's were on hand and worked fine, one extra cut, while much less expensive.
TOPS
The blanks for the float tops start as 8' by 10" and 4' by 10" panels.
The are clamped in place and then I used a router with a flush trim bit to match
the shape of the float. One could also trace the shape onto the panel and the cut
with a jig saw. Using the router gives really matches the shape of the float.
Once they are cut to shape they need to be painted (epoxy coated if desired) on the
inside, as once they are attached you won't be able to reach them.
ASSEMBLY
In the four pictures above the side panels are "stitched" with hot glue to the bottom, then seams covered with duct tape, ready for filets and tape
The inside filets make the structure very strong.
The wales are attached next with glue, nails (I love my air nailer), and lots and lots of clamps.
The tops, aftering being primed and painted on the inside are attached to the wales.
A bead of latex caulk is laid, and then screws are driven into pre-drilled holes
every six inches.
The designer recommends that deck plates be installed to allow the amas to be air out
while being stored. Installing them is pretty easy, once you get past the concept
that you have to cut holes into a perfectly good deck. The process goes like this:
trace around the outerside of the inner lip, drill a hole inside the circle large enought
to fit the blade of your jig saw through. Cut out the circle. (see pictures below).
Prior to actually installing the deck plates the deck should be primed and painted.
Insert the frame, drill pilot holes. Place a bead of sealant to the bottom
side of the plate framt and Using through bolts washers and nuts (I like the nylock ones)
attach it. (Pictures to come).
Float Braces (Akas)
In order to accomodate the sail rig braces and floats (amas & akas) the wales need to be reinforced at the point where the hole for the mounting through will be drilled. A 6" long support is glued and screwed in place.
The akas are shaped from 8' 2x4's, I also rounded all the edges as these will be frequently handled during assembly and when taking apart.
